Install the new switch box and run the wires into it, then attach it to a stud with screws (or use wall anchors if there isn’t a stud nearby).Cut a hole in the drywall for the new switch box, and then fish out two 14-2 or 12-2 wires from one of the existing boxes to feed into this one.Remove the cover plate from the outlet box where you want to install the new switch.Turn off the power to the circuit at the main electrical panel.Then, connect the black wire from the power source to one of the brass screws on the side of the switch and connect the black wire going to the light fixture to the other brass screw. I can post a pic of the existing wiring (without the light connected) this evening.To add a light switch in the middle of a circuit, you will need to remove the break-off tab on the side of the switch. I haven't been using a multimeter (thought this was going to be a quick fix and wouldn't need it) but I'm going to borrow one to use. In the other light (which works how I expect/want) - it was a simple hot to hot, neutral to neutral, ground to ground.
I took out three wire nuts or caps in total. In short, the previous wiring looked like a simple wiring, except that instead of one wire from the box connecting to one wire from the light, there were two wires of the same color wrapped together from the box connecting to one wire of the same color from the light. Removed connection 3: Two bare copper grounds (wrapped together) and one green/ground joined in one electrical nut Removed connection 2: Two neutral/red&white wires (wrapped together) and one neutral/red&white wire connecting to the light joined in one electrical nut Removed Connection 1: Two black/hot wires (wrapped around each other) and one black/hot wire connecting to the light joined in one electrical nut In the light that is giving me issues (with the multiple wires) when I disconnected the old light, I took out three connections: If it is okay to simply cap off one hot and one neutral, does anyone have any guidance on how best to achieve a safe and effective cap besides using wire nuts and tape to prevent any arching? Or is that the best method. Has anyone encountered something like this? I can see no reason why there are multiple connections in this junction box - is my best bet to simply cap 1 set of the wires? Will the light work - will I have a completed circuit - if I use only one, but not all of the hot and neutral wires? Does this mean that the fixture is receiving double the currency? Also, we couldn't keep bulbs in the old Light B fixture because they burned out so frequently. This is made very noticeable by the type of fixtures, which use vintage-looking incandescent bulbs with visible filaments. When I replicate the connections that were used on the old light fixture, Light B with the double wiring glows twice as a bright as Light A with the single wiring.
In the junction box for "Light B" there are TWO of each wire, two ground, two neutral, two hot, and all of the wires are spliced together (neutral wrapped on neutral, hot wrapped on hot, and even the grounds were wrapped together).įor the old fixture that I am replacing, the spliced wires were attached to the appropriate fixture wiring with standard wire nuts. In the junction box for "Light A" there is wiring that I would expect to see: one ground, one neutral, one hot. In other words, I am replacing two lights, both controlled by the same, single switch. When installing two new pendant lights to hang over the kitchen island, I have discovered that one of the two lights has DOUBLE the wiring that I would expect it to have. I've gradually been replacing the lighting in my kitchen.
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